When Fred and Alex announced in 2020 that they were introducing a Cinsault Rouge, we jokingly said that the only way we could be happier was if they were to tell us that they had a Rolle in the works as well. It turns out that they did! Neither Rolle of Cinsault are viewed as indispensable varieties, nor would most wine snobs call them “noble,” whatever that might mean. But if you’ve traveled anywhere along the majestic and mountainous Mediterranean coast from Marseilles to Bocca di Magra you will be familiar with the vibrantly floral wines, both red and white. Rolle, or Vermentino as it is known in its birthplace in Liguria, is a riotously pleasurable variety ideally suited for all things summer, beaches, vacations, grilling, sea spray, and seafood. It is floral in its youth but takes on a pleasant resinous and herbal note with a little age but always has plenty of grapefruit flavors and a salty minerality—not noble according to the snobs but downright fun to drink.