The was a time when growers didn’t talk about their Pineau d’Aunis, much less brag about their old vines. That was when much of this distinctive black cherry and peppery-flavored wine was blended away into generic sparkling wines or made into insipid sweet rosé. Jean François Mérieau treats his Pineau d’Aunis with respect and makes a delicious dry rosé, La Rosée, as well as a sparkling wine from his 60+-year-old vines of this rediscovered variety. He adds a touch of Grolleau Gris to the final blend and always bottles the Bulles de Génie without any dosage.