For over two decades, we’ve had the pleasure of working with Jean-Marc Lafage, a pioneering voice in the Roussillon and […]
Keep ReadingFor over two decades, we’ve had the pleasure of working with Jean-Marc Lafage, a pioneering voice in the Roussillon and a trusted partner on both sides of the Pyrenees. Eric Solomon and Jean-Marc Lafage’s first meeting was serendipitous—over lunch and Garnacha in Calatayud—and ended with a suggestion that we visit his estate in Perpignan. The rest, as they say, is history.
While Jean-Marc comes from a long lineage of vignerons—his family has been rooted in the Roussillon since 1791—his success is no inheritance. Rather, it’s the result of vision, perseverance, and a profound understanding of both place and purpose. Where previous generations contributed to the region’s legacy of fortified wines, Jean-Marc saw the potential for something new: a revitalized, terroir-driven Roussillon rooted in dry wines of complexity and authenticity. He took the reins of a patchwork of family vineyards and set out to create something wholly original—an estate dedicated to capturing the essence of the Mediterranean, while committing fully to environmental stewardship.
Today, Domaine Lafage spans over 160 hectares of vines, many of them older than half a century. But more than the scale or age of the vines, what sets Lafage apart is its deep commitment to regenerative agriculture. Rather than simply sustaining the land, Jean-Marc and his team are actively healing it—reviving soil vitality, increasing biodiversity, sequestering carbon, and restoring natural cycles that industrial agriculture too often disrupts.
This philosophy is neither trend nor afterthought—it’s foundational. Cover crops are seeded to promote microbial life and fix nitrogen naturally. Pruning and composting cycles are designed to feed the soil, not just the vines. Sheep graze the vineyards in winter, cycling nutrients back into the land. Minimal tillage and an emphasis on permanent plant cover preserve fragile topsoils and prevent erosion, a critical consideration in this rugged, undulating terrain. And, in a groundbreaking move for the region, Domaine Lafage has introduced biochar—a carbon-rich soil amendment that not only enhances soil structure and water retention but also locks atmospheric carbon in the ground for centuries.
In recognition of these efforts, Domaine Lafage is a Silver Member of the International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA), a coalition of climate-conscious producers dedicated to reducing the wine industry’s carbon footprint. They have also become certified members of the Regenerative Viticulture Alliance (RVA), which is the highest standard for regenerative viticulture worldwide. But accolades aside, what matters most to Jean-Marc is impact: a resilient ecosystem, healthier vineyards, and wines that speak more clearly with each passing vintage.
The diversity of terroirs in the Roussillon has long been a strength for Lafage. The estate encompasses six distinct zones—from the steep, schist-laced terraces of the Rocky Coast to the Mediterranean Plain’s sun-drenched gravels, from the granite-based heights of Fenouillet to the wind-lashed slopes of the Upper Agly. Each micro-region offers a unique palette of soils, exposures, and climatic conditions, allowing for an astonishing range of expressions.
This geological and climatic mosaic is matched by a thoughtful selection of varieties: Grenache (Noir, Blanc, and Gris), Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Marsanne, Roussanne, and a touch of Chardonnay. Old vines, carefully managed canopies, and precision harvesting—almost entirely by hand—allow for nuanced, site-specific winemaking. Whites and rosés are raised in stainless steel to preserve freshness; reds are mostly vinified in concrete, with a restrained use of oak to let the fruit and minerality shine.
Despite the complexity of his vineyard holdings, Jean-Marc’s approach in the cellar is refreshingly simple: minimal intervention, maximum transparency. The results are wines of purity, depth, and place—whether it’s a bright, saline rosé from the Mediterranean Plain or a brooding, age-worthy red from the schist slopes of Maury.
In a region as sun-baked and wind-swept as the Roussillon, it would be easy to take more than you give. Jean-Marc Lafage has chosen the harder path: one of regeneration, reciprocity, and reverence for the land. His wines are not just delicious—they are hopeful, rooted in the belief that viticulture can restore as much as it extracts, and that farming for the future begins in the soil beneath our feet.
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