This prodigious wine comes from a solera of fifteen casks that have become part of the wine heritage of humanity. It was never bottled until Equipo Navazos selected it in 2008 for its 10th release of ‘La Bota de…’, followed two years later by edition number 20 “Bota Punta”, and then a few more that have been celebrated by many wine lovers who are crazy for this superb Manzanilla Pasada. Under the direction of Eduardo Ojeda, this solera has been carefully looked after by Capataz Cabo for the last decade. A native of Jerez but now working in Sanlúcar, Cabo is one of the finest cellarmasters in the Sherry District.
A feature that contributes to this wine’s singularity and unmatched biological character – intense and steely notes of salinity on the palate – is the way the butts are filled, always with musts coming from vineyards in Sanlúcar, almost up to a tocadedos, within finger reach from the top —well above the customary 5/6 in the Sherry region. This way, the flor, truly weakened now by the wine’s age and lack of nutrients, in these butts is more reduced and can be maintained with those scarce refills. It still performs its function as a physical barrier against the wine’s oxidation, but in its diminished state, it cannot be fully effective and so this Manzanilla offers elegant oxidation notes and a budding rise in its alcohol level, above 16%.
The real average age of La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada #90 “Capataz Cabo” is around 14 years. It is a complex and powerful wine, of balanced freshness and elegant oxidation notes that make it truly unique. Stunningly versatile on the dinner table, it matches a wide variety of dishes, from the most easygoing (rich fish dishes, fish-based rice recipes, charcuterie) to the most difficult (scrambled eggs with boletus edulis, runny sheep cheeses, Asian spicy food). Best served around 12º C, in moderately large stemware.