Having labored for a decade in near anonymity at Domaine Bila-Haut, Gilles Troullier, a native of the Rhône, and an […]Keep Reading
Having labored for a decade in near anonymity at Domaine Bila-Haut, Gilles Troullier, a native of the Rhône, and an expert in biodynamic farming has been liberated from his contractual relationship with his former employer. How a scattered four hectares of vines represented a threat to a wine empire seems curious, but at least we can now give Gilles the attention he so rightfully deserves. His vineyards are located in the northern region of the Roussillon in a sub-zone formerly made famous by the fortified wine, Maury. As tastes have moved away from these sweeter styles of wine there was a brief moment when vineyards in the area were favorably priced – especially considering the range of terroirs: limestone, schist and granite, the elevation of the vineyards and the average age of the vines. This was the opportunity that brought Gilles Troullier to the Roussillon.
Ripeness in the Roussillon has never been a problem. The struggle is how to achieve balance in such a warm, dry climate. Biodynamics plays an important role but great wine is not solely a creation of the vineyard. Hand harvesting, indigenous fermentations and a preference for large, neutral aging vessels as well as an approach that seeks infusion rather than extraction are human decisions that result in balanced, vigorous and fresh wines. They not only transmit varietal characteristics but the minerality of the soil as well. Gilles is a ruthless perfectionist and will skip a vintage if the wine doesn’t meet his exacting standards – in 2010 he didn’t make L’Esprit du Temps and in 2011 he skipped Boreal. Apart from his white wine, L’Imprévue which is a blend of Grenache Blanc and Gris, each cuvée represents a single varietal from a specific terroir. Each is a perfect snapshot in time of a unique place.Close