Tucked into the hills of Aragón, far from the crowds and closer to memory, lies a singular cave and a […]
Keep ReadingTucked into the hills of Aragón, far from the crowds and closer to memory, lies a singular cave and a dream—Bodegas Frontonio. Here, in a 200-year-old house layered over three subterranean levels, wine is not made so much as remembered. Gravity guides the process, and the earth itself governs the rhythm: cool, calm, and patient. The cellar—now restored after years of gentle reclamation—hums with quiet purpose. It can receive 70,000kg of fruit and cradle nearly 50,000 liters of wine in a constellation of vessels: concrete, demi-muids, foudres. Each decision favors restraint, each vessel chosen not for fashion, but for fidelity—to grape, to place, to the past.
This is not a winery concerned with rules. Frontonio’s only allegiance is to its land, its vines, and its senses. The first complete vintage vinified in-house came in 2019, a watershed year when every parcel was fermented on its own. Forty-five lots, all distinct, all urgent. From that kaleidoscope of expression, the winemakers chose to blend—not to blur, but to interpret. The aim was never to showcase winemaking acrobatics, but to channel the place itself.
Nowhere is that philosophy more vivid than in El Jardín de las Iguales—a vineyard that is both relic and resurrection. Planted in fragments between 1898 and 1929, and tended by the same family, Los Paseta, for over a century, these ancient vines cling to old terraces framed by dry-stone walls, many of them nearly lost to time. In 2016, Frontonio became their caretaker, not merely acquiring a site, but inheriting a legacy.
The vineyard might have faded into history, a quiet footnote in a forgotten valley. But satellite images from U.S. flights in 1943 and 1957 revealed its former glory: a living mosaic of micro-parcels carved into the hills. Reviving it has become a near-spiritual mission for Frontonio—restoring terraces, rebuilding walls, and bringing life back to the soils that once sang with vines. In a world of industrial polish and commercial safety, Bodegas Frontonio walks a different path.
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