The color of Gammes d’Été, the label, and the clear glass may lead one to think that this is not a serious wine, but they would be wrong. There is a gregariousness to Thierry Michon, who is prone to take up the accordion at a moment’s notice, but there is nothing frivolous about his wines. This is a thrilling rendition of Gamay with darker cherry fruit that one finds in Beaujolais but with a greater lift of minerality and finer tannins. It’s classically Loire and classically Thierry.
